Complexion powders contain such constituents as talcum, starch, precipitated chalk, bismuth subnitrate, oxide, hydrate, subcarbonate or oxychloride, zinc oxide, magnesium carbonate or oxide, and orris root, together with suitable perfume and with coloring matter if a colored powder be desired. These solids must be in the form of fine powder, must be intimately mixed, and then sifted through a fine bolting cloth sieve; whatever fails to pass through the sieve must be returned to the mortar and be still further triturated until all will pass through. If colored powder is to be prepared, the coloring matter should be added to the powder before sifting. After sifting, the perfume may be added; the whole should be again passed through the sieve to break up any lumps which may have formed by the addition of the moist perfume to the dry powder.
If a flesh-colored powder is desired, carmine is employed as the coloring agent. Sometimes a brunette powder is desired and then burnt umber is used as the coloring agent; cream powder is prepared by the use of cadmium yellow or chrome yellow (lead chromate), a trace of carmine being added sometimes. In the formulas given below, no coloring agents are mentioned, it being intended that these should be added only as desired.
In preparing face powders, the best materials should be employed. For example, Hubbuck's zinc oxide only should be used. The best talcum is what is known as Venetian chalk; the best precipitated chalk is the kind known as the English; the preferred bismuth subnitrate should be a very light variety, etc. Some face powders are made with a lead salt; the latter should, owing to its poisonous character, never be employed.
-- Albert Ethelbert Ebert, The Standard Formulary
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