1904 Fashion - Ball Gowns and Dinner Gowns

OF late years there has not been so appreciable a difference between dinner gowns and ball gowns as was the case ten years ago, and as will be the out of fashion, although this case this season. Formal dinners son, like last winter, in these days might in truth be called banquets, and of necessity the most elaborate of dress is required, and such style of dress as would be equally appropriate at a ball. But by the term dinner gown is understood such a gown as is suitable for a dinner, not a dance, and different from a ball gown in being made with larger sleeves, and cut perhaps less decollete.

The fashionable dinner gown for the coming winter season is quite different in general appearance from last winter's style. The skirt is wider, there is a decided tendency towards crinoline, the waist is more elaborately trimmed, and the sleeves arc much larger. Plain silk and crepe de Chine, velvet in many different weaves and crepe meteor (a kind of crepe de Chine), are the favorite materials, although satin, flowered silks, lace and fancy nets of all kinds, and decolletage of silver galloon is for everything to be elaborately trimmed. A smart model made in black figured net has vertical lines of heavy white lace around the entire skirt, the net shirred between the bands of lace, the lines rather close together at the waist, and gradually diverging until at the foot of the skirt they are wide apart, while between are lines of narrow gold braid tied in bowknots. The waist is heavily trimmed with points of the lace, and has gold braid on a deep bertha of the net, while one large red rose catches the bertha up at the left shoulder. The sleeves are made in two large puffs above the elbow, while a broad belt of gold ribbon finishes the waist.

Spangled black gowns are again to be worn, but the design for the spangles is always one that is rather flaring and graceful, never in stiff lines, and there are fewer spangles, while the net or lace must be finer than when more thickly covered with the spangles. A touch of color is seen on all black spangled gowns; often the belt is of blue or pink velvet, and a rosette or flower fastens the bertha at the left shoulder.

Belts of plain or fancy ribbon in draped folds and fastened with rhinestone or jewelled buttons are also quite a feature of the dinner gowns. Handsome buckles add greatly to the effect of the waist, no matter of what material the gown is made. In taffeta silk, the bodice may be of flowered ribbon, or of taffeta to match the rest of the gown, and the silk is so arranged that it has the effect of being shirred at either side of the buckle in front, for the fad is to have all belts or bodices fasten in front, or a little to one side if that is more becoming. The only exception is when the waist fastens at the back, and in such fashion that the belt would look badly if made separate. The gold and silver ribbons are most effective in belts, and are finished in a succession of small bows instead of with buttons or buckles.

Embroidered crepe de Chine cannot be called a new fashion, but there is considerable difference in the new styles of the embroidery. The material itself is often hidden under the heavy silk flowers, and bands of drawn-work which look like lace, but are in reality the crepe de Chine with the threads drawn and made like the linen drawn-work. When exorbitant prices are asked for gowns this season, the excuse for once is reasonable that so much hand-work compels it, and none but handwork is possible on these very elaborate gowns.

There are some most attractive gowns made of a new sort of poplin, much softer in texture and lighter in weight than old-fashioned poplin. This in light gray, cream white, or any pale shade of color makes up most satisfactorily in afternoon or dinner gowns. The trimmings in bands of Irish lace insertion, or in silver or steel embroidery are effective, and can be arranged to give the long lines that are more generally becoming than the trimmings on most of the present models.

Quaint and old-fashioned in effect, but considered extremely smart, are the ruchings of box-pleated taffeta ribbon, or pipings of satin in whito or some contrasting color. This last fashion has, however, been too generally used in the cheaper readymade taffeta and cloth gowns during the summer to be considered very smart any longer, and must not be followed without great care. After all, no matter whether there is unlimited money to be spent, or close economy to be consulted, one's dress always requires no end of care and thought in the choice, or the results will be most disappointing.