Corsets in the Mode: The S-Bend

Around the beginning of the Edwardian era, a new style of corset called the S-bend came into fashion (see fig. 1906 above.) New observations about health were leading many medics to believe that corsets were unhealthy, and the S-bend was, in theory, a more healthful corset as the leaning action it forced naturally made the waist appear to be more narrow, reducing the need for compression, and the larger rib section supposedly made it easier for the wearer to breathe fully. Actually women didn't seem to take much heed: ultimate Gibson Girl Camille Clifford wore her S-bend at a famous 18 inches, and there are mentions of "a certain well-known actress" who compressed herself down to a 12 inch waist!

Reports from modern-day and old-time corset wearers alike actually tend to agree the S-bend is substantially more uncomfortable than the earlier style; perhaps then this is the reason for its short lifespan. One man, telling the story of his grandmother's toils with the S-bend, related that the said lady, who was of the middle-class, was forced to hire a maid to help with the housework after switching the to new mode: she could no longer see over her own chest to do baking and cooking. (But apparently her husband, a baker by profession, liked her new look well enough to go along with this expense for the sake of fashion.)

A report of 1911 declares that "the straight up-and-down silhouette is the fashionable one, the aim being to give the effect of an uncorseted figure." (see fig. 1914 above.) The S-bend had died after barely more than a decade.